quinta-feira, abril 02, 2015

Momentos e mudança no sector da moda

"The result is the latest wave of retail Darwinism: the classic American shopping emporiums that put downtown Main Streets out of business in the 1960s are now themselves on their way to extinction.[Moi ici: Será que ainda ouviremos nos media o choradinho a pedir apoios para salvar os centros comerciais?]
O tema, personalizado no caso da GAP, neste artigo "Inside GAP'S Plan to Get Back Into Your Drawers", já aqui foi abordado várias vezes, o futuro dos centros comerciais. Recordar "Versão beta", por exemplo.
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No entanto, o mais interessante é a própria história da GAP:
"The iconic brand [Gap] slept through the fast-fashion revolution fueled by the likes of European labels H&M and Zara; got lost amid competitors such as Uniqlo and Target, who offered basics and denim at higher and lower price points; overexpanded; and became too ubiquitous for today’s niche-minded fashion crowd. "We used to talk about the ‘Gapification of America,’ that notion of one size fits all," says WSL’s Liebmann. "That’s just not a proposition relevant to America now." Between 2006 and 2010, sales dropped every year at Gap’s North American stores; since 2013, store sales have continued to suffer.
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He is convinced that the company’s future will depend not just on delivering better product but on radical experimentation.[Moi ici: Interessante, porque isso é o que fazem os "ignorantes" empresários das PME que descobrem, que fabricam o seu futuro, enquanto os académicos lhes dizem que está tudo perdido, ou que precisam de se deslocalizar, ou de ter mais dinheiro] Gap thrived in the heyday of the mall—what Peck calls Retail 1.0—and floundered in the fast-fashion wave he calls Retail 2.0. Gap’s hope, he explains, is to leapfrog ahead to win in the Retail 3.0 era: a mobile-fueled future in which physical stores will have an entirely new role. "We’ve been doing business the same way for 40 years, and there are very few 40-year-old business models that are successful forever," Peck says. "Periods of disruption are periods of disproportionate opportunity," he continues, laying the  stakes. "More money is made during disruptive times—but is also lost—than is made during times of stability." So what will that store of tomorrow deliver?"
Ainda há dias escrevemos aqui no blogue sobre a superioridade económica do modelo Zara.
"Training customers to expect chronic discounts has become a destructive cycle at Gap. He knows that he has to "pull out the promo needle," as the industry puts it. To do so, Gap needs to ramp up its Retail 2.0 capability: Right now, he says, it takes the brand at least 10 months to get its new product ideas into stores. [Moi ici: Um barbaridade nos tempos que correm] That’s about three times as long as competitors like H&M and Zara, which have built their success by hopping onto the fashion world’s hottest trends and riding them. "We’re an industry that guesses a lot," says Peck, who is working with vendors across the entire supply chain to cut production time down to around 30 weeks.[Moi ici: 30 semanas? Ainda é muito! Por isto, também, é que o têxtil português está a fazer o seu regresso] "The faster you are in conceiving product and putting it on the shelf, the less risk there is."
E, como verdadeira cereja no topo do bolo...
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